We arrived in Prague after a four-hour bus ride, since we weren't allowed to take our trusty rental car into the Czech Republic. Even though it was overcast and gray when we arrived, the "City of a Hundred Spires" immediately charmed us with window displays of its famous crystal and creepy marionettes. The sugary scent of trdelník--a spiral-shaped pastry stuffed with cream and fruit or chocolate--floated on the air, and bars with cheap, delicious beer seemed to beckon to us.